Some trial and error, as well as significant help from my wonderful friend Jessica, has given me a specific process for cleaning a bike. Some may disagree with my methods, perhaps vehemently, but this is what I do; and hopefully my bicycles will not crumble beneath me while I'm careening down Commonwealth Avenue.
You will need the following supplies: rubber gloves (the kind you use for doing dishes, not latex gloves), Barkeeper's Friend (an abrasive powder available in most grocery stores in the cleaning section), copper wool pads, a bowl with about a cup of water in it, baby wipes, alcohol, Q-tips, and steel wool pads.

Wipe down the entire frame with baby wipes soaked in alcohol. On older, steel bikes that are covered with rust, using alcohol is essential because it dries quickly and does not contribute to any further rusting. Clean the hard-to-reach spots with baby wipes dipped in alcohol. Some people use popsicle sticks to do this; I haven't tried that yet.
If you have a Raleigh, wipe down the surface of the shifter as much as possible so you can see what year your bike was made! You will find the last two numbers of the year under the Sturmey-Archer logo.

Gross.
Wipe down the components the same way you cleaned down the frame. Then dump some Barkeeper's Friend in your bowl of water and don your gloves. Take your copper wool pad, dip it in the bowl, and pick up some of the cleaning powder that's settled on the bottom. Scrub down the components, not the frame or anywhere that is painted. The rust should start to come off fairly easily. Not all of it will come off, but you should be able to create a noticeable difference. Don't use either copper or steel wool on areas where you can see the chrome plating peeling off, either. When the water gets dirty, replace it. Don't be stingy.

Dirty.

Clean(er)

Dirty...
Clean!
You could precede this initial cleaning phase with a powerwash or a strong wash with a hose. If the paint on the frame is chipping heavily, please don't point your hose head directly at the sensitive paint areas. While powerwashing has its dangers, it is very helpful in cleaning around the shifter and mechanical components.
If you are lucky enough to have a Brooks saddle on your Raleigh (you won't find them on other vintage bicycle brands), go to your local bike shop and purchase some Proofide, which is Brooks' own saddle conditioner. Even if your saddle looks like it might not be salvageable, spend the $12 and put the Proofide on it. Just don't waste the money if your saddle looks like this:

I believe it endured an old-fashioned flaying.
Anyway, we thought the saddle on our bicycle was too dried-out and misshapen to be ridden. But one dose of Proofide later and we had this beauty, which our friends at Harris Cyclery have assured us needs no additional treatment:
Once you have given your bicycle a full cleaning, you will be able to determine which, if any, parts need to be replaced or fully restored on the basis of cosmetics alone.
For example, although the fork and brakes cleaned up nicely, we will have to sand down and completely repaint the fenders:

Next up: removing and cleaning components!


































